PART 2: Eastern Europe Tour - Cesky Krumlov, Czech R.
Ahhh... I love the smell of wood ovens burning from country houses. The smell is everywhere here and it will be one of my best memories from this voyage!
Yesterday I arrived in Cesky Krumlov in the southern part of Bohemia (Eastern Czech Region), and what can I say but Madhuri, you were absolutely right! It IS one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen in Europe... rivalling even Prague itself, and many of the small towns I saw in Switzerland and yonder a few years ago.
The town's cobble stone streets wind up and down small hills as if on an adventure themselves! "Rose Town" cottage-like houses especially have their own flamboyant character with strange patterns on their walls' large bricks, that is when they are not painted with story-telling or comedic murals.
Last night in my hostel, I met four Eastern Germans who came here on a short two-week vacation (I confirmed it -- Germans have 5 weeks of paid vacation!! I am so jealous!). We decided to go to the pub next door, met up with a Scot and a Kiwi, who played songs all night on his guitar as my friends were telling me in their best English (and I in my best German) about their own travels and their favourite passtime of a Dungeons and Dragons type game.
I met another guy from Washington here who found out about the terrorist attack in Germany on a TV "billboard" -- he told me that soon after it happened, he was recognized as an American (ie. the backpack gave part of it away) and was interviewed by the local media.
In my last email, I mentioned I would hope to go to a Czech Tea House (new movement that began in the early 1990s as a peaceful revolt against multinational fast food outlets and the smoke-filled alcohol-driven atmosphere of "the ubiquitous Czech pub"). Dimly lit Czech Tea Houses serve an astonishing array of teas from across the world by silent pro-buddhist / hippy waiters. The place I ended up visiting (which seemed like the most distinctive choice) created quite an interesting experience for me. Though "business hours" were clearly displayed on the front door, the door was locked and when I tried to open it... someone chouted something from inside... in czech of course so I had no clue what they said. I retreated into the street a little, and from the corner of my eye, saw another guy walk up to the door and ring the bell (an actual 3" high bell next to the door), to which the door was unlock and the man was invited in. This made me cautious, but my book mentioned that this place was safe; it just had these peculiar little habits. Must be part of the "experience". So, gathering up my courage, I rang the bell. A minute later, I heard the door unlock and a British Columbia looking hippy guy let me in. Walking into the small room, I noticed all the tables (which were very low, along with the chairs) were taken. I must have drunk a strong cup of coffee that morning because I still ad some courage left in me. With that, I went to a table with three chairs but only two people and asked if I could joined them. Though we were all shy at first, we eventually begun talking... in German! (boy, this language is coming in handy here!) In the end, I had some great "Tiger Spring" tea and received two recommendations for cool Czech CD Albums (bought them eventually at the music stores). Phewph, now that was quite the experience.
Another experience, was Absinthe. I'm sorry to say that I have never been so unimpressed. It tastes a little like Aniseed / Black Licorice / Sambucca (take your reference pick), so that was not a good start for me. It was pretty strong, but nothing I wasn't used to anyway. Finally, I've decided that I'll rather be taking back the also strong but sweeter tasting "Becherovka" for my collection at home. Drop by, I'll be glad to share some with you when I return!
And I can't speak about drinks without acknowledging one of this country's greatest asset: BEER! During my trip, I have heard many tell me (including Germans) that Czech beer is THE BEST TASTING BEER in the world. Unfortunately, not being a beer fan, I could not confirm this claim, but several people have told me that prefer it even to beer from Bavaria and the Netherlands. Either way, if you wish to try it, the popular brand name that I have seen in Cesky Krumlov and Prague so far is "Pilsner". Anyone disagree?
Lastly, the wild boar steak I had the other day was equally unimpressive; the bear paw I ordered today turned out to be a regular beef sirloin folded in half with mozerella in the middle (pretty good); yet, the fried loaches (dozens of fried little tiny fishes, eaten whole) were quite tasty but very salty... now I will be looking at the baskets of tiny fish sold on Chinatown streets in Toronto with a different perspective!
Though it seems that I am using a lot of German, I picking up quite a little bit of Czech - it is a tough language with too many consonnants! Check out this city's name "Brhlovce" (syllables: br-hlov-ce)... you try it!
Well, I am trying to keep this email shorter than the first (I wonder if you have even had enough time to go through the first so far), but I have so much to share with you... but don't worry, I'm still saving some good stories to share in person for when I return!
Na zdravi! (Cheers)
